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分析指全球鑽石業持續平穩

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石中此物是西施 談石榴石

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RAPAPORT... Chow Tai Fook’s revenue leapt 15% in the first fiscal half amid
rising demand for gold products in Greater China.
Group sales of $3.17 billion (HKD 24.75 billion) for the six
months to September 30 included $1.47 billion (HKD 11.52 billion) in gold
retail sales — a 20% year-on-year jump, according to figures the Hong
Kong-based jeweler released Tuesday. This outweighed a 1.6% drop in retail
sales of gem-set jewelry to $635.6 million (HKD 4.97 billion). The company’s
other revenue came from its wholesale, trading and services businesses.
Gold demand fueled growth both in mainland China, where
same-store sales jumped 10%, and in Hong Kong and Macau, where the increase was
9.5%.
The current fiscal year, ending March 2018, will be a
“turning point for our business given the nascent jewelry market recovery” in
Hong Kong and China, Chow Tai Fook explained. “Although the recovery is gradual
and mild, the industry is expected to return to a stable yet sustainable
growth.”
Profit soared 44% to $234.2 million (HKD 1.83 billion), the
retailer added.

 寶啾寶石報報： Another Golden (Gem) Anniversary: Tanzanite Turns 50  丹泉石50歲了

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 Tanzanite turned 50 this year, and there are a number of reasons to
celebrate and highlight the stone: a fine quality tanzanite can compete
with some of the best in color, and the gemstone’s story is so
interesting because it shares such a strong connection to its place of
origin.

In 1967, a Maasai tribesman came upon blue stones in
northern Tanzania. He alerted a local prospector who helped figure out
that it was, in fact, a new gemstone he had discovered.

Campbell Bridges, known for his discovery of tsavorite garnet (which
also celebrated 50 this year), then helped bring the stones to the West
and to the attention of Tiffany & Co., which named tanzanite after
its country of origin and brought it to the gem market with an official
launch in 1968, according to the Tanzanite Foundation.

The stone has risen in popularity in the colored stone world and, in fact, was added to the birthstone list in 2002. And yet even today, the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro remain the only place where tanzanite is mined.

There
are very few instances where a gemstone is so closely tied to the land
from which it is sourced, making tanzanite unique in the world of gems.
Because the gem is sourced solely in that area, it’s also closely tied
to the political climate in Tanzania and there’s a significant amount in
flux there right now.

The Current Events

In May, President John Magufuli fired the mining minister and the chief of the state-run mineral audit agency, according to Reuters, after an investigation into the possibility that some mining companies weren’t declaring all exports in order to evade taxes.

Then in September, the government ordered the military to build walls around the tanzanite mines
to control the supply as it leaves the mining site. This came, it said,
in response to an investigation that found many cases of smuggling.

That same month, Magufuli announced that he had signed into law new mining bills that required the government to own at least a 16 percent stake in mining projects.

The
law also increased duties on gold and minerals, which, among other
things, increased the taxes on rough gemstones to be exported from the
country.

Gemstone cutter Roger Dery, who travels to Tanzania a
few times a year, said he thinks the government’s move to be more
stringent in collecting money where it’s due could elevate prices a bit
in the future. This might be especially true for dealers who are trying
to export early next year to have pieces in the United States in time
for Tucson, he said.

Still, he doesn’t think that the increased
duties and prices of tanzanite will act as a deterrent for sellers,
especially those dealing in larger stones.

After all, demand for
the stone is still high, he said, especially for him: “Within the past
year, I’ve sold more tanzanite than I can ever recall.”

Bruce
Bridges, son of Campbell Bridges, said via email that he’s seeing a
lower supply of tanzanite right now, due in large part to what’s
happening on the ground over there.

He said all of these actions
have led to a decrease in confidence in the gem sector there. “When
confidence is down, investment in mining goes down, which leads to less
supply.”

Additionally, he noted another factor coming in to play.

All
of the hurricane activity the Caribbean saw this fall, and the
devastation that came to so many islands as a result, has had a massive
impact on tourism to the area. Since a decent amount of tanzanite is
sold through cruise ship tourism, which has been so affected by the
hurricanes, there are fewer potential buyers of tanzanite.

So
due to a combination of factors--a decreased supply accompanied by a
decreased demand--Bridges said prices are fairly stable.

This
picture of Campbell Bridges (left) and prospector Norman Matthews
looking at a tanzanite sample in front of Mount Kilimanjaro appeared in
Life magazine in May 1969.

Alan Hackman of Intercolor
echoed that, noting that because the tanzanite mining sector is
controlled by only a few--and even fewer who have a strong enough
financial backing to hold on to material instead of releasing it as it
comes to sell--there’s a lot on the market, so prices are stable.

He
also said that while he does think the hurricanes could have an effect
on demand, he thinks it will only be a short-term issue.

The Opportunity of Fine Gems

These
days, there’s a “reasonably consistent” quality standard across the
board, Bridges said. And though that’s accompanied by a slight decrease
in the larger, finer materials, no one should have too many issues
currently in getting what they need, even if that comes in the form of
older stock.

For Intercolor, the biggest change in quality of
supply lately has been in the colors; Hackman estimates that 95 percent
of the tanzanite they’re seeing now displays more purple than blue.

Given
the fact that they believe when tanzanite is cut from the purple axis,
the yield is higher--as opposed to cutting from the blue axis, which he
believes is weaker and more prone to damage--this change is not
necessarily a bad thing, he said.

For Dery and designer and carver Naomi Sarna, getting their hands on the quality they want hasn’t been an issue.

Sarna
started working with tanzanite in 2013, telling National Jeweler that
she thinks it’s the “most beautiful of the blue stones.”

In
addition to her love for the stone, which she says is shared by her
customers, Sarna also has a strong connection to Tanzania. She often
travels to the country to source gems and currently is part of a project
that teaches Maasai women how to make wire-wrapped jewelry as a source
of income.

Her most recent venture is to sell “L’heure Bleu,” a
carved tanzanite weighing 725 carats. All of the profits from the
$500,000 price tag will go toward much-needed eye care for Maasai women.

She’s eager to help provide the seed that will help support a
program for these women and the Tanzanian people, who she said are
“eager to improve their lot in life.”

Her involvement there provides an example for one of the major conversations in the colored stone sector right now: establishing sustainable practices and livelihoods in gemstone communities.

This
support is especially important for a place like Tanzania, where
tanzanite and the community around it are so interconnected that every
change has a direct impact on the gemstone community.

“Government
actions concerning mining, licensing, import and export in the near
term will have a resounding effect on the industry and sustainable
futures of these gemstones,” Bridges said.

He added: “There is a
great history behind tanzanite and a wonderful worldwide market that
has been developed. It would be very sad, indeed, if the Tanzanian
government were not to help nurture and honor this gemstone’s continued
development in a constructive way.”

寶啾寶石報報：Revere Academy to Close

Jewelry-making school the Revere Academy will
close this Friday after nearly 40 years in operation. “I truly love
teaching the goldsmith’s art and we have had a great run with the
academy,” said founder Alan Revere. 

 

 

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 San Francisco--After nearly 40 years in operation, San Francisco’s
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts will close at the end of the week.
Over the summer, the school’s founder, German-trained master goldsmith and award-winning designer Alan Revere, announced his intention to retire and said he was looking for a buyer for his business.
Early
Monday, however, the school sent out a press release stating that it
will cease operations Friday, following the graduation of the 34th
Jewelry Technician Intensive class and won’t offer any classes in 2018.
In
an interview with National Jeweler back in July, the 70-year-old Revere
said he’s had a “great run” with the school, which he opened in 1979
after returning from goldsmith training in Germany.
Over the
years, Revere and his staff have trained more than 10,000 students from
all over the world, including serious jewelry designers like Dana Bronfman as well as jewelry hobbyists. The school’s curriculum was largely based on the seven books written by Revere.
“The school has been fantastic,” he said. “I’ve met so many people and been able to help so many people.”
He added Revere Academy also has achieved his goal of bringing more beauty into the world.
“(Making
jewelry), it’s not like making refrigerators or shoelaces. It’s
special,” Revere said, “and I’ve been part of it. It feels so good.”
In
retirement, he plans to spend time traveling the West in his VW bus,
which, in a way, is coming full circle for the jewelry designer.
Revere
graduated from the University of Virginia with a degree in psychology
and had planned to go to law school, but a trip to Woodstock in the
summer of 1969 changed his mind: he wanted to become an artist.
He
spent a year driving around in a VW bus and found his passion at the
Instituto Allende in Mexico, where he began making jewelry.
After
two years in Mexico, he moved to Germany to study at the famed
Fachhochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim. Five years after returning
from overseas, he opened his own jewelry-making school in San Francisco.
Now, Revere said, it’s time for the next chapter in his life.
“It just seems like time,” he said.

天成國際2017年珠寶及翡翠秋季拍賣會日前結束，總成交額逾2.21億港元，一對鑲有莫桑比克紅寶石的鑽石耳環以4,800萬港元成交，刷新莫桑比克紅寶石首飾世界拍賣紀錄。

據主辦方表示，是次拍賣會中有七件珠寶以逾千萬港元成交，整體成交率達77%、翡翠珍品成交率近90%、尖晶石成交率近80%。會上最矚目的拍品
「紅色浪漫」─
總重量139.14克拉天然緬甸抹谷無經加熱處理紅寶石配鑽石項鏈，經過共15口叫價後，最終由電話買家以6,780萬港元成功投得。而刷新莫桑比克紅寶
石首飾世界拍賣紀錄的一對14.54克拉及13.12克拉天然莫桑比克無經加熱處理「鴿血紅」紅寶石配粉紅色鑽石及鑽石耳環，從2,600萬港元開始叫
價，經過一輪激烈叫價後，以4,800萬港元成交，超越拍前最高估價。

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台灣南北飲食習慣不同，因此會出現許多在地獨有的特色小吃，近日有網友在臉書「爆廢公社」上表示，自己在台南念書，被同學逼吃「虱目魚腸」，本來心不甘情不願的她吃完後驚為天人直呼「超好吃」！

▲原PO被同學逼吃煎虱目魚腸後，驚為天人直呼好吃。（圖／翻攝自臉書爆料公社官網）

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照片中，一盤全黑的不明物體，讓來台南唸大學的女網友看了退避三舍，但經過同學們的百般說服後決定嘗試，沒想到卻意外美味「被同學逼著吃，看似恐怖卻蠻好吃的，但魚腸湯我還是不敢吃, 只敢吃煎的！」而這也讓她好奇的發文詢問「想知道有多少人也愛吃魚腸？」

而該文章也被轉貼在臉書「爆料公社」官網上，引起眾多網友熱烈的討論「人間美味啊」、「光配白飯就好幾碗去了」、「超愛！煎魚腸酥酥香香，現在入手困難」、「這是南部名產，來北部後很想念！」

寶啾寶石報報：AGTA GemFair, Antique Show to Co-Locate in Las Vegas in 2019

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 New
York--The American Gem Trade Association and U.S. Antique Shows have
announced that their Las Vegas trade shows will be co-located at the
Las Vegas Convention Center beginning in 2019.
The annual Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, which features about 400 exhibitors, moved from the Paris hotel and casino to the Las Vegas Convention Center for the June 2017 event, a relocation it has now made permanent.
The AGTA GemFair Las Vegas event currently is held in the South
Pacific and Islander Ballrooms in Mandalay Bay as part of JCK Las
Vegas. In 2019, the latter will move back to the Sands Expo and Convention Center.
AGTA and U.S. Antique Shows said the move is designed to enhance
their respective markets through an increased access to international
buyers and cohesive exhibitions. The move also will provide AGTA with
more opportunities to grow and market its GemFair Las Vegas event.
"We carefully researched all facets of this partnership prior to
making the decision to align with U.S. Antique Shows at the Las Vegas
Convention Center," AGTA CEO Doug Hucker said.
"Through
on-going conversations with our members, as well as multiple
discussions within the board and in committees, we came to the
conclusion that it's time for an evolution for AGTA GemFair Las Vegas.
The collaboration with Emerald Expositions was a logical choice; not
only is the move mutually beneficial to both of our exhibitors and
attendees, but there is also a commonality in the perspectives and
goals of each of our organizations."
Gannon Brousseau, Senior
Vice President of Emerald Expositions' Jewelry Group, said, "There is
tremendous cross-promotional appeal between these two autonomous yet
complementary events, and this partnership will ultimately contribute
to the prosperity of the entire trade."
Further information about the 2019 events will be released in the coming months.
Meanwhile, JCK Events also announced Wednesday that it will expand
its JCK Las Vegas show in 2019 to include a new International Gemstone
neighborhood featuring gemstone suppliers from around the globe.
The new neighborhood will run alongside JCK Las Vegas in the Sands
Expo and Convention Center. It will be held from June 1 to June 5,
2019, opening one day before JCK.
"Adding an international
presence for gemstone suppliers offers a unique, unrivaled opportunity
for our vast audience of 20,000-plus domestic and global buyers,"
said Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of JCK. "With the move back
to the Sands Expo and Convention Center we have the opportunity to
offer new experiences and features in an upscale, more buyer-friendly
environment."
--Michelle Graff contributed to this report.